32 Proven Tips For Fishing Rivers (& with Strong Currents)
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Fishing rivers, big streams, and canals can be intimidating if you only are comfortable fishing still water. Current plays a huge role in where fish will be and how to fish them. Strong current can be tricky to handle and catch fish in.
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How to Fish Rivers Even with Strong Current
Large Rivers
When fishing large rivers, you need to locate the main current to fish. Sure some small fish may occasionally be caught from shore but big fish will be riding that river current seam tight.
Big rivers can be vast with very limited areas where all fish are concentrated. You need to move right onto the edge of the current and fish. Many anglers make the mistake of parking their boat right on the seam but that could be a mistake.
Instead, position your boat in the current assuming it’s not too strong and cast a few times into the eddy and reel it through the seam. You may catch a few fish doing this that otherwise may be spooked off when you park your boat over them.
Now, go and move your boat onto the calmer water outside the seam and drop anchor. Cast your baits at 45-degree angles up and downstream slowly reeling your lures through the main current and across the seam. If you are fishing with live or cut bait, cast your bait as close to the seam as possible and let it drift along.
Once a big fish bites, you may need to ditch the anchor and chase it. Here’s a trick that will save you time and stress. Attach your anchor to your boat with a clip or carabiner. Have a small buoy float on standby.
When you hook into a big fish, you can quickly disconnect the carabiner and attach it to the buoy. Go fight the fish and once you’re done, you can return to the same spot and reconnect to the anchor. The buoy will remain in place attached to the anchor.
Small Rivers & Big Streams
When fishing small rivers and streams, locate the main current. Big fish will be hanging tight to it often times right along the seam. Look for any current break you can find.
Trout, bass, and catfish will seek these locations out. Smaller fish will often be in the outer eddies but big fish prefer the food and protection given by being in the middle of the stream.
Cast flies or bait upstream and allow the current to guide your bait down to waiting fish. If fishing with lures like spinners, cast either straight across or downstream and guide your bait into the main current with your rod tip,
This method will draw the most strikes as your bait will be in the strike zone longer. Spillways and weirs can be great spots for trout, catfish, and bass and provide both deep water and current breaks.
When fishing for carp, cast your bait in the slack water eddies off the main current channel. Carp will find plenty of food to eat here as the current deposits everything in this location.
Be careful though, it also deposits logs and snags too. Don’t fish with braid for river carp. Instead, use monofilament which will resist abrasions a lot better. Using braid will lead to a lot of break-offs.
Canals
Canals can be tricky to locate fish in. For the most part, canals are featureless from a quick glance.
Most canals have steep cement sides then bottom out for a few dozen feet before inclining back up on the opposite side.
Water can flow pretty quick through canals and there doesn’t seem like any obvious current breaks exist for fish to escape the current onslaught.
There are current breaks though which hold fish. The pillars of bridges offer excellent current breaks. Fish will often stack on the downstream side of pillars.
Weirs and irrigation pump grates can be good spots to locate fish. Small baitfish love these sites and bigger fish like striped bass and catfish will be hunting here. One more spot that will hold fish is canal bends.
In a bend, water will flow very fast around the outside edge of the bend but remain relatively calm on the inner part of the bend. Many canal fish will hang out in this inner calm zone.
To learn which baits to use, check out my recommended gear lists for carp, bluegill, crappie, yellow perch, and northern pike.
A great castable fish finder can be an awesome tool for locating fish and fishable spots from the bank, boat, or through the ice at night or during the day. I like the Deeper PRO+ (link to Amazon where you can read reviews).
32 River Fishing Tips
1. Current Trumps Everything Else
When fishing in rivers and stream system, the current dictates everything. Most fishermen who spend most of their times on lakes look for the usual important factors like cover, water temperature, storms, water-depth, and season to pattern fish.
All those factors still apply to river fishing but none of them compare to the influence the current has. The current will dictate fish location and activity level.
As an example, I read about a gentlemen years ago who was fishing bass on a cold late fall morning with air temps in the 30’s and water temperatures were in the low 40’s. If he were fishing in a lake under these conditions, he would’ve been lucky to get 1 or 2 bites all morning. However, he and his friend killed it with some big bass mixed in.
Even though by every measure known to lake fishermen, the conditions were poor for bass fishing, there had been a heavy rain the week before which stirred up sediment and algae in the water. As a result, bass were super-aggressive despite every reason why they shouldn’t have been. Current trumps all.
2. Seek Out Current Breaks
Most fish don’t want to swim against the current all day. In fact, the only fish I can think of that actively resists current on purpose are salmon and steelhead swimming upstream to spawn. Most resident fish do their best to conserve as much energy as possible while simultaneously positioning themselves in locations where the current can pass food by.
Look for any feature or obstruction that disrupts the strong flow of current. Eddies, boulders, logs, river bends, and islands are obvious choices where fish will rest while being in a position to feed.
Some less obvious features like river markers, floating buoys, vertical sticks, and even underwater sand humps can be enough to disrupt current flow and provide enough sanctuary for big fish to rest behind.
3. Seams
Seams are a critical location to fish. A seam occurs when a current of flowing water meets calmer water just outside the main current. This transition zone will be vital to your success as a river fishermen for just about any gamefish species you target.
Big fish will suspend in these seams with their bodies positioned in calmer water and their heads facing upstream at an angle into the main current.
As bait gets pushed along by the current, fish will lunge into the main current to grab the bait before it moves further downstream. Many fish like trout, bass, and catfish can be very aggressive because often they are competing with other fish for the same food items.
4. Understand How to Read a River
Every stream and river has 4 main parts. They have the main channel where the current is strongest. This is usually found dead center in the river. Next, you have the “seam” which is the transition area between the fast main current and slower water off to the side.
Seams are fish magnets. You can often visually see seams on the surface of the water. Eddies form off to the side of seams and are often swirling pockets of slower, usually deepish water.
Smaller fish usually hang out here. The last section of stream is the flat shallow water usually by the bank. These are often only a few inches deep with water flowing fast over sand or rocks. Don’t fish here.
5. How to Fish Islands
Islands are a great place to fish, especially small islands on a river. Fish will associate tightly to islands depending on the speed of the current.
Typically you can expect to find fish either at the head of the island where the current divides around either side of the island or on the backside of the island resting in the calm water with the two divided currents converging once again.
When the current is weaker, you’ll often times see big fish position at the island heads waiting for food to pass. This is a great location to hit first. In stronger current, you’ll more likely see the big fish move to the calmer back sides of islands facing the current that is converging around them.
6. Reference Multiple Maps
This is something I think you really should do. No one map contains all the information, not eve your GPS map.
Some maps will show depths, the location of the main current, and surrounding topography whereas another map will show the presence of a flooded field with stumps, vegetation, and boulders. In navigable rivers, pick up at least one river navigation map.
These navigation maps can be a gold mine of information. They can even tell you the location of shipwrecks. They can also display potential hazards in the water you otherwise would not see. Reference no fewer than 2 maps the next time you’re on a new river.
7. Trust River Markers Over Maps
River maps are important but always trust river markers over maps 100% of the time. Maps can be outdated and may not reflect the current, ever-changing dynamics of a river.
Buoys, safety markers, and depth markers are constantly be adjusted to reflect changing water levels and conditions. As we all know, sandbars can shift and appear in new locations in a matter of days.
Always keep some maps as reference material, but always trust markers and buoys over any maps no matter how recently printed. They will never be as accurate or trustworthy as the river markers will be.
8. River Markers: Trust but Verify
And yet a 3rd level of precaution needs to be made. River markers are reliable safety measures placed on the river for boating safety.
They are being updated often and typically are a safe guideline to follow. That said, conditions can change quickly and river markers are not real-time reflections of what is happening on a river.
If you are cruising along and you see something that looks different than what your river marker is telling, be very cautious. The marker may show the passage is safe but if your gut is making you second-guess yourself, listen.
As I said, sandbars can shift quickly and trees can be washed into new places not previously identified. If you are ever in doubt, slow way down or come to a complete stop and inspect the depth of the water in front of you.
9. Where Fish Position: Strong Currents
In fast currents, fish will hold very tight to both the seams along the main current as well as to current breaks. They need to hold very tight to the channel seams because bait zips by really fast.
If they aren’t right there with an open mouth, they will miss the chance to feed. When fishing strong current, find current breaks and the defined seam, and fish these as tight as you can.
10. Where Fish Position: Weak Currents
As current becomes less strong, fish can move out away from the current some. This is because bait coming down the current is passing by much slower and many food items will actually be deposited in the calm eddies outside the main channel.
Focus through baits across the channel and reeling the bait through the seam and into the eddy. Many bites will actually occur in the eddy.
11. Where Fish Position: No Current
Good luck. When there’s no clearly defined current and almost no water flow, fish behave almost like they would in a lake or pond. Finding them can be very difficult as they’ll scatter about in search of food.
Generally speaking, the faster the current, the easier fish are to find and catch. They can be very hard to locate when the current is very weak.
For finding these fish, you then need to rely on water temperature as your guide.
This is one of the very best at-depth water thermometers available capable of sensing down to 300 feet. You can also use it to find fish in lakes, oceans, and while ice fishing.
12. Bank Fishing: How to Read the Water
Big fish tend to hover in the center of the stream right along the main channel. Smaller fish tend to focus more on the side eddies with slightly shallower water off to the side.
Don’t even waste your time with the shallow, rocky water. Occasionally, you’ll find big fish in the shallower eddies near shore but big fish, especially big trout, require food and shelter both of which are offered in the center of the stream along the main current
13. Bank Fishing: How to Cast
I discuss this greater detail in tip #24 but for live bait, cut bait, and fly fishing, cast upstream and allow the current to naturally carry your bait to fish facing upstream.
When fishing with lures, I recommend casting from 12 o’clock (straight across the stream) to about 45-degrees downstream.
This way you can let the current put proper action your lure and you could simply guide the lure with your rod tip into the main channel where the strike zone is.
To learn how more about fishing rivers and streams without a boat, I wrote a comprehensive article on bank fishing you should check out.
14. Smaller Baits, Heavier Weights
Pretty much any bait that works in lakes will also work in rivers and streams. Largely, fish are still consuming the same food.
That said, many fishermen will attest that river fish seem to prefer smaller-sized baits than would work in lakes. If you are fishing a 1/2 ounce jig in a lake, you’ll want to go with a 1/4 ounce jig. Downsize your baits for better success in rivers.
Now just because you are downsizing your baits DOES NOT mean downsize your weights. In fact, you want to increase the heaviness of the weights you use.
Remember, you are fighting against the forces of current here. You’ll need heavier weights to get your bait where it needs to go. In rivers, shrink the bait but increase the weight.
15. Maximize Backsides of Islands
Water from currents running both sides of an island will converge on the backside. Position your boat on one current seam and fish that seam until the bite stops.
Then re-position your boat on the other seam and fish that. You could keep swapping back and forth until the bite stops altogether or you simply tire of catching fish.
16. Try Plastic Tubes
There are countless lure types that work well in river settings but one I want you to consider are plastic tubes.
Tube baits work really well for bass, walleye, pike, and crappie among other species in river systems. Tubes are often overlooked by many bass anglers but they represent two major bait types present in almost any river: crayfish and baitfish.
To mimic crayfish, go with a deep red, brown, or black color. Shad, suckers, and minnows can be presented to fish using whites, grays, silvers, blues, and blacks. Like I said, so many different lures will work but try tubes first.
17. Snags Will Happen
If you are going to fish in rivers, particularly near the bottom, you need to accept snags are going to happen. The river’s current carries and deposits so much debris and wood that your hooks are going to find these items inevitably.
Wood and debris are carried in the main channel and get deposited just outside the seam where they settle. This is exactly where I recommend you fish. This location has its good and its bad points.
I would strongly advise you not use Carolina rig-type set-ups as these have many components to them that lend themselves to snagging. Also, use heavier weights to keep your bait stuck to the bottom.
If you allow the current to drag your bait along, it can only lead to snags. Snags are going to happen before and after a hook-up so you’ll just have to accept and do your best to pull fish in quickly before they wrap themselves up in something.
18. Understand Seasonal Fish Movement
Fish associate with the current year-round but they are also affected by seasonal changes. During the spring, fish move into shallower water for a period of time to spawn. In summer, fish often move into deeper water right along the seams of the main current where cooler, more oxygenated water is full of life and bait.
In the fall, baitfish move in shallow so bigger fish like catfish and bass follow them. During the winter, big fish again return to deeper water along the channels and river bends where warmer water can be found. These are merely general rules and fish can and will break these occasionally.
19. River Fish Can Surprise You
It’s easy to stereotype certain fish and assume you know how they’ll behave in a river based off what you think they do in a lake. Take for example smallmouth bass and largemouth bass.
Many anglers would assume smallmouth bass would be out in the main body of the river eating shad and crayfish among the boulders whereas largemouth bass would be back in the calm sloughs and backwater among lily pads.
Largemouth bass can surprise you. Some of the biggest largemouth bass you’ll catch in a river can be found right in the strongest part of the main channel holding tightly to the least assuming river break available. Something as simple as a baseball bat-sized stick standing vertically in the water could be enough to support a big bass.
20. Fish Backwater Sloughs
Backwater sloughs and eddies can be great places to fish. Find the main channel running through a slough. This is where you’ll fin very big fish resting along.
Catfish, carp, and bass really like calmer sloughs off the main river. Weeds, logs, and tree fall-overs can be great spots to pitch baits as well.
21. Focus on Slough Heads & Island Heads
At the heads of sloughs and islands (the upstream part), you’ll often find sandy points or spits of raised bottom that jut out.
Big fish will often hang around the tips of these points facing into the current from the calmer water. These are excellent locations to toss live bait, cut bait, or spinners.
22. Fish Sand Drops & Points
The sand drops and points associated with the front of islands and slough heads usually have a steep dropoff on the calm side of the point of sand.
Catfish, bass, and pike will often lie in wait on these steep dropoffs where the water can go from mere inches down to 6-10 feet in depth very fast. If you are passing these locations by, you could be missing out.
23. Upstream vs. Downstream Approach
When wading in a river, you could move up or down the stream with similar success. Moving upstream is generally safer and less likely to spook the fish. Wading downstream is more precarious but affords a fisherman the ability to make very short, precise casts and allow the fly to drift away in the current.
This is a very complex topic that needs a much greater explanation. Please read the article I wrote on this topic which dives into the pros and cons of both approaches and how you can maximize your success.
This is just scratching the surface on this important and somewhat controversial debate. Check out my article on upstream vs. downstream fishing to learn the proper way.
24. Upstream vs. Downstream Casting
Much discussion has been made over when to cast baits up or downstream. Most books and videos will recommend casting upstream since fish will be facing upstream and as your bait drifts or is reeled through the current, fish will view it naturally.
I think this is how live bait and flies should be fished. I do not think you should fish lures this way.
Unless there is almost no current at all, you will need to reel your lure very fast to make the blades spin or to keep it off the bottom. You’ll need to move it faster than the current. Within seconds of casting it, your lure will be right by your side needing to be recast.
Instead, I recommend casting the bait at 45 degrees away from you and using your rod tip to guide the lure into the main stream and letting the current do your work for you.
This may not seem as natural as casting it upstream, but your bait will stay in the strike zone longer and some fish will grab it.
26. Use a 2-Anchor System
For river fishing, I think you should consider a 2-anchor system. With a single anchor, your boat will not remain steady and could sway and twist as the current pushes against the boat. You can make your boat nearly-dock steady by using a second anchor to lock you in place.
Simply drop the anchor at the rear of the boat and keep some slack. Now drop an anchor at the front of the boat and cinch the rope tight. Now tighten the back anchor rope tight and your boat should be locked in tight and be as steady as could be.
To perform this maneuver in rivers with medium+ current, you are going to want two quality 20-pound river anchors. This river anchor available on Amazon is a great example of what I’m talking about.
If you are fishing in shallow water under 10 feet, you could also employ a Power-Pole shallow water anchoring system if your boat can accommodate one. I would recommend two for rivers as one may not be steady enough. Check out the complete article I wrote discussing Power-Poles for shallow water anchoring.
26. Big Fish Love Convergent Currents
Seek out convergent currents. These can occur behind a big boulder or a small island. They also occur most forcefully where a smaller stream dumps into a big river.
The point where the stream’s main channel and the river’s main channel converge is prime feeding for big fish. Bass, catfish, pike, sturgeon, walleye all love these locations.
27. River Fish are Strong
Believe it or not, most river fish are stronger pound-for-pound than fish of the same species and size in lakes. At least is my experience and the experience of many fishermen. These river fish spend their whole lives constantly battling current and hunting in tougher conditions.
They build up immense strength unmatched by lazy-water fish. Couple a strong fish with a strong current and battling big river fish is an intense experience. Make your gear and mindset is up to the task.
28. Use Braided Line with Caution
It’s common knowledge that quality braid casts smoother and further than mono but braid is poorly resistant to abrasion and dings. If your line under tension rubs against a rock or snag, it will snap almost assuredly.
I know a lot of bass anglers love braid but in rivers where snags abound, I recommend using monofilament which has very good abrasion resistance. You won’t be able to cast as far but with mono, you are far less likely to lose fish you hook.
For a complete breakdown of mono vs. braid vs. fluorocarbon fishing lines, check out the article I wrote on this topic. I spent 4 hours piecing together the research for this on top of drawing from personal experience.
29. Wear Polarized Sunglasses
This is obvious to many fishermen so I feel lazy for including it. Water plays tricks on our eyes making objects seem further away than they are. The surface of water also reflects sunlight preventing us from seeing clearly what lies beneath the surface. With a good pair of polarized sunglasses, you can see structure, topography, features, and fish you otherwise wouldn’t with the naked eye.
30. Cast Tight to Wood & Trees
Bass, trout, and crappie like to hang very tight to wood in the water. If you find wood, hangovers, and trees in the water with a steady current running through it, big fish will hold here. But you need to get your bait very close to the wood.
If you start getting nervous with how close your bait is to the wood, go just a little closer. If you never lose any lures, you won’t be able to go buy more. And we all love lure shopping.
31. Crayfish & Baitfish Patterns are Great
Crayfish and baitfish like shad, minnows, chubs, shiners, suckers, smelt, and speckled dace abound in just about every river and stream system.
Even if you have no previous knowledge of what lives in a particular river, you can be assured it has crayfish and at least one of the above-mentioned baitfish. Select lures and patterns that mimic these baits and you’ll catch fish.
32. Hit Channel & River Bends
Whenever you come across a river bend, this is a potential gold mine. Water will move faster along the outside of the bend and slower on the inside turn. The results in very shallow water on the inside and much deeper water on the outside of the bend.
Big fish will congregate in this deeper pocket along the seam of the main channel as it bends. Fish here for summer and winter fish like bass, catfish, and trout.